Itacaré, Bahia, Brazil

When I think of a place that has the perfect combination everything I love, I think of Itacaré. I’ve been making annual trips to this place for the last 4 years and every time I’m here it grows even more on me. The surf is consistent, warm weather & water, and there are tropical beaches with the lush towering jungle behind them scattered along the coast. The food is delicious and affordable, with endless options. There is a big permaculture scene and yoga community for those who crave to immerse themselves in these activities as well.

Bahia is the soulful part of Brazil, where African, Indigenous, and Portuguese roots blend into a culture that has a deep connection with the land. The region radiates resilience, creativity, and a slow, intentional way of living. Some other common destinations in Bahia are the capital Salvador, Caraíva, Trancoso, Morro de São Paulo, and Chapada Diamantina. “Baianos” (people from this region) are unhurried and extremely kind. Once you’re here, this environment encourages you to be present and enjoy life in a more relaxed way.

*All of the best beaches are only accessed by trails*

It’s hard to decide which beach is my favorite. There are a lot of beaches with waves in Itacaré, some easier to get to than others, but the journey getting there makes it even more worthwhile. Praia da Tiririca is the one closest to town and within walking distance. It’s a dumpy beach break that really delivers - but since it’s less expansive than the other beaches and the easiest to access, it can get crowded very quickly (especially in the afternoon sessions). From Praia da Tiririca you can walk to numerous other beaches close by, which eventually leads you to the trail towards Prainha. This trail takes about 45 minutes, and be warned that there are no vendors once you get to Prainha so its best to bring food & water because you will want to spend the whole day here. Just like most beaches in Itacaré, this is another beach break. There are several peaks that function on different swells, making this the most consistent wave in my opinion.

Driving out of the main town up the road you can reach Praia Jeribucaçu. The trail down to Jeribucaçu leads you into a the most picturesque shallow river mouth that creates some really fun waves. The trail is steeper to this beach, but definitely worth visiting. There are beach vendors selling things like agua de coco, tapioca, açaí, and even fried fish. The best part about Jeribucaçu is that after your surf you can lay in the shallow river freshwater and cool off. Praia da Engenhoca is a bit further out (15-20 minutes) however its the best wave for longboarding or bigger days when the other beach breaks are closing out.The wave is a bit fatter which makes it fun to carve and cruise on. This beach is similar to Jeribucaçu where you have kiosks with snacks and drinks for sale, and a small creek to wash off before taking the 20 minute trail through the jungle back up to the main road.

*Entering Jeribucaçu from the end of the trail*

On the way back to town from Engenhoca, I always stop by the Casa da Tapioca for THE BEST tapioca. I get the "tapioca de carne de sol com banana da terra" (ask for the house vinagrete) and a "suco de propolis". Then right next door I walk over to Cafe Cacau to have their drip coffee with homemade whipped cream, and their "bolo de cacau" for dessert. Just trust me on this one.

Back in town on Rua da Pituba, there are countless restaurants and shops with amazing food for any budget. At the beginning of Pituba there is my favorite açai in the whole world:  Açai Raíz. Its an organic açai blended with no processed sugars (just banana and honey) and the fresh toasted coconut granola and fruits of the day toppings make it perfect <3. If you are not staying in a pousada with breakfast included, you can always just go to the local bakery and ask for a "misto quente com ovo, suco de laranja, e café" for a quick, budget friendly and classic Brazilian breakfast. Some more western style café/brunch spots to work from and have a latte at are Ola Bistro & Xodo Café. For a low budget and filling lunch, Toca Da Cabana is just a few steps away. Over by the fisherman's boats (known as the "Orla") my other favorite lunch spot is Baobá Bistrô.

*One of the charming side streets found along the main road: Rua da Pituba.*

The evenings are when Rua da Pituba really comes to life. All of the shops open up, and everyone goes out to the streets. A must do during your time here is a dinner at Tia Deth. The moqueqa baiana is a classic, and here they do it the best! If you're in the mood for something lighter and very budget friendly, Gafanhoto Lanches is the way to go. The sandwiches are both filling and delicious - and make sure to ask for their homemade vinagrette. I'll leave my list of other favorite dinner spots here:

```
Marley's
```
```
Néctar Comida Afetiva
```
```
Núúh Bistrô
```
```
Ola 
```
```
Nacib Bistrô
```

Some nights across the bay from the Orla at the point of the peninsula called Pontal, you’ll see small boats zipping across with people, where you’ll see lights and faintly hear music. From time to time, there are bands playing forró and everyone dancing in the sand.

Its worth stopping for dessert or a late night snack at Cafe Caramelo or buying the creme de cacau at Itacaré Cacau. Known as the Costa do Cacau (cocoa coast) this area of Bahia is most known for its cacao cultivation. And of course, this means it’s very famous for its high quality dark chocolate. Cacao thrives in humid Mata Atlântica (Atlantic Forest) growing under native shaded trees called cabruca. To learn the cultivation process from start to finish, a beautiful cacao farm to visit is called Vila Rosa. It’s about a 20 minute drive up the river Rio de Contas. The cacao estate offers tours with tastings, and it includes a tour of the colonial-style farmhouse known as a casarão.

For other water sports activities - I recommend doing the Canoa Hawaina with Itacaré Canoa (Instagram @itacare.canoa) where you’ll get to see the town rowing through Rio de Contas. Big is an amazing guide, taking a small group from the Orla up the river, stopping to swim in the riverbank, then you row into a mangrove forest to get off and walk over to the Cachoeira do Cleandro.

For sunsets everyone heads to Ponta do Xaréu between Praia da Concha and Praia do Pontal . There’s usually music going and caipirinhas being made in the mobile cart bars, with locals and tourists watching the sunset over the river.

Itacaré carries an energy that is both grounding and alive, not to be written off if you ever find yourself in Brazil. Beautiful beaches, smiling people everywhere, warm culture, fun waves. A place surrounded by jungle & rythm. Its a place I can’t stop returning to.

Contact

herflowstudio@gmail.com